The outside box is the same level as the inside, setting the stage for a flood. They put the water level below the rim, which looks bad. I will only use them for sumps anymore.Īlso those overflow boxes are not very well designed. Others have done it but the tank scares me. Have you ever had one before? When full, they deflect a full 1/4" in the middle - right where you will have your holes. Which way would you do it if this tank was going to be in your living room? That's the way I'd like to do it to keep the water line as high as possible. In that video the template is aligned to the top of the glass, which seems like what would be happening if the template was aligned with the inside of the rim which is closer to the top. 3rd photo shows this position.Įshopps has an instructional video that shows a tank being drilled for one of these, but the tank is rimless. However, if I put the template on the inside of the tank where the rim is higher, both the internal and external boxes seem to fit perfectly around the rim as high up as they could possibly be in the tank. If installed at this point, the top of the internal box is just about even with the bottom of the rim, so it's pretty much impossible to get the water line all the way up to the rim. The 2nd picture shows where this would be, though it's a little bit hard to judge since the bulkheads push the box off the glass some. The result of that in the pictures I saw online was a very low water line due to the low positioning of the internal box. In the examples that I've seen people have followed what the directions and oriented the drilling template with the arrow pointing up toward the rim on the outside of the tank. I'm almost ready to drill the tank and have looked around the web for how other people have installed this overflow, and particularly on a rimmed tank. Planning to run it Herbie style with the third drain being emergency backup only. The other gasket should be placed between the external box and the bulkhead nut.I'm setting up a 40 breeder, and have an Eshopps Eclipse L overflow that I am planning to use. Installation Tip - When installing the bulkhead gaskets we highly suggest placing one between the inner overflow box and the aquarium. That lets you upgrade to a larger pump or tank in the future, with an added safety benefit of being able to handle additional flow if one drain gets clogged or restricted. In most cases, we will recommend using an overflow that is +1 sized for your application. Selecting the right overflow for your tank can be confusing but it is a pretty simple formula, just take the total flow produced by your return pump and select an overflow that can handle that overall flow rate, and still be able to fit inside of your aquarium. The guide helps you set the perfect water level for your aquarium and then lets you know exactly where to drill your hole(s). It is required to drill your aquarium with the Eclipse overflow but drilling is fairly simple and with the included glass drill bit and drill guide. Water can flow through the 1/4" teeth in the wet-side of the overflow, and then through the included bulkhead into the external box that holds additional bulkheads to let the water drain down into the sump. The internal/external design for the Eshopps Eclipse Overflow Boxes creates a minimalistic design inside the aquarium, extending less than 1.25" inside the aquarium. The DIY project only takes a few minutes to complete and compared to HOB style overflows, the Eclipse has a fail-safe design that includes three drain bulkheads for a Herbie or Bean Animal method of plumbing. The Eclipse aquarium overflow system consists of a slim black box that is mounted inside of your tank and a clear external box that mounts outside of your tank, to transport water down to your sump with as little noise generated as possible.
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